The Craft Beer Guide to Atlanta
©2015, Gene Phillips/AtlantaPhotos.com, map by Sarah LawrenceWhen I moved to Atlanta in September of 2014 to begin full-time work at Paste, it was a new beginning in more ways than one. Hailing from the idle suburbs of Chicago, my only experience with The ATL, the “Empire City of the South,” was having once passed through it en route to a childhood vacation. The city was a seemingly blank sheet of paper in my mind … except for a dozen or so glowing red dots. Those dots were the breweries.
It’s simultaneously a great time and a challenging time to be a craft beer fan in Atlanta, or perhaps it’s more accurate to say that it’s always been a challenge here, but things are currently heading in the right direction. That should be no surprise—in Georgia, we simply look over at Alabama for inspiration, a state that went from the worst in the nation to nearly average in terms of its brewery laws and restrictions in the space of only two or three years. If Alabama can get its act together, we certainly can as well, even if breweries are currently prohibited from so much as selling a beer to people who visit their taprooms. The Georgia Craft Brewers Guild is currently fighting on the state legislative level for these very rights, and it’s impossible to ignore how plainly reasonable their requests are. Those requests simply boil down to “Hey, can we update Georgian law so it’s roughly the same as the rest of this country?”
Despite the poor law, though, Atlanta-based breweries are actually thriving. Like so many other U.S. metropolitan cities, Atlanta has undergone its own local craft beer renaissance, although this one was a little bit longer in coming. Sweetwater Brewing Co. and Red Brick Brewing were the city’s standard bearers and kept the torch of craft beer burning for quite a while, and for that, they’ll always have a place of honor in the scene. In the last two to three years, however, a plethora of new breweries have opened their doors, several in 2014-2015 alone. Many are very small, several are draft-only, but all are making at least some intriguing beer. I now know that because I’ve visited every single one.
After arriving in September, I resolved to write this guide once I’d been here long enough to physically visit every single brewery in the greater ATL area, and as of last week that task is finally complete. I’ve familiarized myself with all of their products over the last six months, diving into the culture, attending local beer fests, living out of the beer bars. I’ve written about them, I’ve reviewed them. I’ve made them my local go-to’s. I’ve physically set foot in every building where beer is being commercially and officially brewed in Atlanta/Decatur, as of March, 2015. And I’ve formed some general conclusions.
Here, then, is your beer guide to Atlanta. This is not meant to include every brewery. This is a guide to the places you should check out, if you’re visiting the city—and why.
The Breweries
These are the commercial breweries you should visit, which is unfortunately easier said than done. Many are open for only a few hours, a few days a week, once again thanks to those wonderfully archaic Georgian beer laws. Still, all of these breweries do offer weekly “tour hours” where visitors can plunk down a few bucks for a labeled glass, which just so happens to come with tickets or tokens redeemable for samples of beer. Wink wink, nudge nudge, say no more. I’ll include current hours of operation.
1. Monday Night Brewing
Monday Night Brewing is a portrait of a successful craft brewer in 2015 with mass appeal. They have a very strong sense of core design and brewery identity, embodied in the necktie-shaped tap handles you’ll see throughout the city. Their beers are by and large approachable, classical takes on popular styles such as IPA, Belgian witbier and scotch ale—nothing that really pushes the boundaries too much, but almost uniformly solid. Their tasting room is also one of the cooler places to hang out on a weekend afternoon or “Monday night,” a large, airy room where one can plop down on a couch, watch sports projected onto the wall, play some table shuffleboard or hang out on an outdoor patio with a pleasant view of some vintage Atlanta foliage. It feels like a welcoming, no-frills space, and it’s these kind of breweries that continue to drive new converts into craft beer. Bring an old necktie to contribute to their wall of ties and they’ll give you $1 off your entry price.
Open hours: 5:30-7:30 p.m. Monday and Thursday, 2-4 p.m. Saturday
2. Three Taverns Brewery
If there’s a specific genre of beer that is made very well in the Atlanta/Decatur area, it’s Belgian ales, and Three Taverns is one of the reasons why. Their lineup features both traditional Belgian styles (singel, dubbel, quadrupel) and styles with an American twist (hoppy wit, Belgian IPA, Belgian imperial stout), making for a well-balanced portfolio that still leans heavily toward their Belgian inspiration. The small, attractive taproom, meanwhile, evokes a different aesthetic than the bro-friendly hangout of say, a Monday Night. Darker, warm in color and redolent in wood and exposed brick, it captures the feel of an old English pub (or perhaps a Belgian monastery), evoking a place that is far older than it really is. Another good taproom to visit on a weekend afternoon, although perhaps with a bit more quiet contemplation or conversation in mind.
Open hours: 5:30-8 p.m. Friday, 2:30-4:30 p.m. Saturday
3. Orpheus Brewing
It wouldn’t be a brewing scene in 2015 without at least one beermaker squarely focused on sours, and in Atlanta that would be Orpheus Brewing. The results, as one might expect, tend to fluctuate a bit in quality, but the core lineup is strong. Atalanta, a mildly tart plum saison, has quickly become a city staple, although I personally prefer the Lyric ale, a classically dry, funky, Franco-Belgian saison. Also popular, their Bone Tablet IPA series, especially the 10% DIPA, Transmigration of Souls, featuring the currently trendy Azacca hop. The taproom, meanwhile, is a small, interesting space with an industrial aesthetic that is weirdly offset by the wall decorations, which trend toward postmodern weirdness as well as some neat sketches of their labels. This is a good taproom to visit if you’ve got someone in town who wants sour and funk.
Open hours: 6-8 p.m. Thursday and Friday, 2-4 p.m. Saturday
4. Wild Heaven Craft Beers
The philosophy of Wild Heaven is all about originality and novelty—some of the styles may be classical, but there’s always a tweak of some kind that pushes things into more unique territory. Take the Ode to Mercy, an imperial brown ale brewed with local coffee and lightly oak-aged. Or the Civilization, a barleywine with dried Prussian lemons, tart cherry and cranberry (and most recently aged in tequila barrels). From beginning to end here, nothing is quite what it seems at first glance. The tasting room, meanwhile, is an attractive but still developing space, with room for a good number of tasters and a long bar that makes service much easier. It’s an especially nice brewery to visit when the weather is nice, as the outdoor patio and its long wooden tables are a perfect place to hang out with friends on a spring/summer evening.
Open hours: 5:30-8 p.m. Friday, 1-6 p.m. Saturday, 2-4 p.m. Sunday
5. Second Self Beer Co.
Second Self owns the latest brewery taproom to open in Atlanta, an unadorned, no-frills place that nevertheless was filled with people thirsty for beer when I recently visited on a Saturday afternoon in February. The brewery’s philosophy seems to favor balance, blending some classical styles with a collection of genre-expanding spiced and herbed beers. Those who favor classic American craft brewing will feel at home with the red rye ale or session IPA, while more adventurous drinkers may tackle the Thai spiced wheat beer or gin-inspired IPA, which evokes a full range of botanicals and not just juniper as too many “gin” beers do. In fact, spicing and delicate flavor combinations seem to be a strength of Second Self’s brew team—we were particularly impressed by the restraint and balance shown in their molé porter during our recent tasting and ranking of the American porter style.
Open hours: 5:30-7:30 p.m. Friday, 2-4 p.m. Saturday
The Brewpubs
Compared to the commercial breweries, the brewpubs of Atlanta have the additional benefit of being open to the public during normal business hours, which is certainly helpful if you want to visit somewhere making local beer on say, a Wednesday or a Sunday. Despite this, there’s actually not quite as many brewpubs in the area as one might expect, but what they lack in quantity, they make up for in quality.
6. Wrecking Bar Brewpub
The Wrecking Bar is as notable for its food as it is its beer, which is actually quite the compliment to the beer. With an eclectic, adventurous menu of gastropub cuisine and a very cool location situated below a 115-year-old house, it immediately makes a memorable impression on appearances alone. The beer menu, meanwhile, is all over the place—you’re just as likely to find a reverential take on Dusseldorf altbier as you are a puckering American wild ale or double IPA with experimental hops. In fact, there may be no place to visit in Atlanta that is such a sure bet for good beer—just about everything on the menu is a home run.
7. Twain’s Brewpub & Billiards
Twain’s is the kind of place that average American beer drinkers picture in their heads when someone says “brewpub.” In the classic American sense of the word, it’s an archetypal example of the style, with a menu that celebrates burgers in particular, and a constant murmur of families chatting, laughing and playing pool in the background. The beer menu is similarly what you’d expect for the style of establishment, although it features better-than-average takes on styles such as “nut brown ale” or American pale ale. Beer flights are a particularly good value at Twain’s—for just a couple bucks you can easily taste your way through the entire lineup. Great daily specials as well—A burger and a beer on Wednesday or Sunday evenings will run you just $10. In the heart of downtown Decatur, which is filled with pricey fine dining options, Twain’s is refreshingly down to Earth.
8. 5 Seasons Brewing Co.
5 Seasons has three locations, with one perfectly situated on Atlanta’s west side, right next door to perhaps the best beer store in town, Hop City. Despite being more common, they still seem to fly under the radar a bit, which is really unwarranted because the beer lineup is award-winning and extensive. This is another brewpub where the flight of tasters is an especially good value—you can taste a generous sampling of everything they have to offer for the price that a single pint would cost you on its own. The food menu is extensive, waffling between brewpub standards (pizzas, sandwiches) and some more thoughtful fare (a Belgian beer-paired tapas menu). The chain presents itself as a little bit more buttoned-down than the earthiness of a Twain’s, with a greater focus on the restaurant aspect.
The Beer Bars
9. The Brick Store Pub
Decatur’s Brick Store Pub has long been acknowledged as not just one of the best beer bars in the South but one of the best in the country. With two bars (including a wonderfully cozy upstairs Belgian bar) and a full menu of gastropub food, it’s a one-stop shop for experiencing some of the best beer available in the area. In particular, The Brick Store has the single largest cellar collection I’ve ever seen, which is codified in a large manual of vintage beer that you can peruse while sitting at the bar. If you’re not the kind of person patient enough to put together a six-year vertical tasting of say, Sierra Nevada Bigfoot, then this is the place you can go on any night of the week to make that happen. The carefully curated selection of aged beers is second to none.
10. The Porter Beer Bar
The Porter may very well have the best overall draft list in the city, with a collection of more than 45 beers that tend toward the novel, esoteric and newly available. That extensive lineup is supported by wonderfully written tasting notes, which is always a great plus when browsing a beer list, wondering what you should settle on, especially when confronted with such a vast array of choices. Another beer bar with a stellar kitchen, The Porter’s food menu runs toward the decadent, from bacon hushpuppies to goat cheese fritters. I dare you to look at the brunch menu in particular without becoming ravenously hungry. The Porter is an epicurean’s dream.
11. Steinbeck’s Ale House
A slightly more out-of-the-way locale, Steinbeck’s is a bit better kept secret and is less likely to be overrun with tourists and beer geeks on a weekend than the likes of The Brick Store or The Porter. An Irish pub in look and in musical taste, Steinbeck’s actually contains a smaller but extremely high-quality beer list and solid menu of bar comfort food. It’s the kind of place you should follow on Facebook because you never know if they’ll be announcing a rare tapping—several months ago, Steinbeck’s was one of the only Atlanta institutions to pour servings of Founders Canadian Breakfast Stout. That’s beer geek caché.
12. Argosy
There are more than 30 beers on tap at Argosy, but what makes the draft list stand out is how adventurous it is. “Entry-level” offerings do not abound here—you may find a few low-ABV, high-flavor offerings, but expect the majority of the lineup to be dominated by big DIPAs, stouts, sours and Belgian ales. As much a restaurant as it is a bar, though, Argosy also offers a unique selection of woodfire pizzas, homemade hot dogs (really) and Southern staples. It’s that rare place where you can pair a locally smoked hot dog with a Belgian farmhouse ale and it doesn’t seem even the least bit odd.
13. The Bookhouse Pub
The Bookhouse is a humble, relaxing, inviting sort of place—the moment you walk in, you feel a bit like you’ve entered the cozy library of some rich uncle’s country mansion estate—or possibly the cloister of some cathedral, thanks to the stone and stained glass windows. The walls are framed with wood, and old books line the shelves in rings—you expect it to have that used bookstore smell that has become all too rare in 2015. Of course, this post being an Atlanta beer guide, there’s plenty of craft beer as well, in styles that trend a bit more toward the approachable. Food is available too, comfortable and simple. It’s simply a bar that evokes comfort and good times shared between friends, long nights spent in conversation where the beer is enjoyed but the company is what you likely remember.
Honorable Mentions: The Midway Pub, Augustine’s, Ormsby’s, Cypress Street Pint & Plate, TAP, Taco Mac, Thinking Man Tavern