5 Can’t-Miss Paris Food Markets
Photos by Emily Dilling“How much more can you say about museums and bridges?” a fellow expat and writer asked me recently, only somewhat rhetorically. Though I didn’t have a response for her, I find it to be a fair question—especially when you live in a city whose main export is its postcard-perfect image.
The bridges and museums of Paris are undoubtedly both impressive and beautiful, but after spending time exploring central Paris you start to feel like the whole city is a museum. After a few days of museum-going, it’s natural to crave a more human, dynamic experience.
Paris is a city that is defined not only by its history, but also by its people. Taking time to watch the locals and adapt to Parisian culture can be both entertaining and rewarding. Nothing is more fulfilling than making a smooth metro transfer or anticipating (and maybe even answering) a question from the boulanger.
History and culture collide at the city’s food markets, making them a great place to participate in Parisian daily life while carrying on the beloved tradition of market shopping. There are over 80 food markets in Paris, some of which date back to as far as the early 1600s. The markets set up regularly throughout the week, all across the capital, keeping the market experience alive and accessible to all.
However, not all markets are made the same. Many farmers have been priced out or simply left the market, to be replaced by wholesale vendors hawking imported produce sourced from large-scale distributors. It is an easy mistake to be taken in by these vendors, as the market context and environment has remained the same; many shoppers don’t notice that the content has drastically changed.
If you want an authentic French market experience—one that combines old-world charm with current foodie criteria—check out these five can’t-miss markets that allow you to discover the city in a whole new way.
1. Marché biologique des Batignolles (Boulevard des Batignolles, 75017)
This is one of the city’s three all-organic markets (“biologique”, or “bio”, is French for organic). Along with certified organic fruits, vegetables, meat, fish, and dairy products, this market also overflows with flowers, fresh baked goods, bulk grains and dried fruit, and great people-watching. Grab a hot-off-the-griddle potato pancake or chickpea galette and wander the aisles, observing families, cute couples, and neighborhood chefs in their native habitat. This Saturday morning market is where food lovers come to kick off their weekend, before heading to nearby Le Bal Café or KB Caféshop for some craft roasted coffee.
Before getting your caffeine fix, be sure to pick up freshly laid eggs from La Ferme du Nohain and locally grown veggies from Patricia at Au Val du Coutant. If you’re looking for more greens, grab a fresh-pressed juice from Hermione Boehrer’s stand, where you will also find delicate seasonal herbs and fresh baby greens. Michel Beucher also sells exquisite apple ciders and juices, and will be happy to sing you one of his many original compositions dedicated to the apples of his Normandy orchard.
2. Marché d’Aligre (Place d’Aligre, 75012)