Photo by Joe Parks CC BY NC
Once a major shipping port and shipbuilding city, Portsmouth, New Hampshire has been given new life with artistic venues, local breweries and restaurants bringing different flavors to the plate. Much of its history still stands through preserved period homes—with some dating back before the Revolutionary War—and repurposed buildings holding clubs or eateries. Nestled near the mouth of the Piscataqua River, this seacoast location has managed to keep its past alive while creating a modern-day vibe. If you’re looking for a city that has history but isn’t quite dead yet, Portsmouth shouldn’t be overlooked.
1. Market Square
This downtown commercial district has been a public gathering spot since America was still under British rule. Its past uses include a military training ground and New Hampshire’s Colonial era assembly and courthouse.
Nowadays around the square (pictured at top), meal options appeal to every budget and palette. The River House is best noted for its creamy and hearty seafood chowder and waterfront setting. The Franklin Oyster House, set inside a restored 19th-century oyster house, offers a $1.25 daily happy hour special on select oysters and meaty dishes including their buttermilk fried Maine Chicken. Cava serves Mediterranean-inspired tapas and small plates, extending to patatas bravas, croquetas de jamon serrano and a dark chocolate bocadillo. A chef’s tasting menu is also available.
Other local options include La Maison Navarre for coffee and macaroons; Ceres Bakery for baked treats (try the gooey and delectable snitz) and breakfast and lunch specials; Breaking New Grounds for their cinnamon rolls and single origin or blended coffees; or Popovers on the Squares, a bakery/cafe with airy muffins and lunch fare.
Shops cater to interests in books, home furnishings, specialty foods, jewelry and anything that can be nautically themed. Park your car at an off-street lot or in the major parking garage on Hanover Street, and enjoy the area on foot.
2. Portsmouth Breweries
Portsmouth breweries go beyond standard production. On Market Street, longtime downtowner Portsmouth Brewery produces traditional ales and lagers, and offbeat hybrids. On tap choices could include their American Farmhouse Ale, a light to medium bodied twist on Belgium style ale; or Nitro Nugget Pale Ale, a full bodied pale ale with an English malt profile combined with nugget hops. As for bar grub, get mussels steamed in their Blonde Ale broth, paired with two choices of seasoning and a toasted baguette for dipping in.
Tucked away on High Street, Earth Eagle Brewings produces gruits, an old-fashioned herb mixture applied to bittering and flavoring beer, which was popular before hops were extensively used. Try the orange tinted Mary of the Marsh, containing marsh plants Sweet Flag, Labrador Tea and Sweet Gale. Consider ordering one of their panini-style “sammies,” such as the sweet and salty pork with cider mustard, tomato and arugula on ciabatta.
In Portsmouth’s West End, Liar’s Bench Beer Company has a simple menu of sausages. Taps can dispel an Imperial Coffee Porter called Colombian Thunder Pony; the grisette-like Bench Beer; or Cali Speak, a west coast IPA with copious amounts of Simcoe and Cascade hops. On Route 1, in south Portsmouth, Beara Irish Brewing Co. imports Irish barley malt and pairs it with New England-sourced ingredients in producing beers like their NH Maple Wheat. Irish music sessions happen every weekend. Great Rhythm Brewery on Bartlett Street has on-tap and canned choices like American IPAs Sticky and Squeeze, and their American Double/Imperial Stout, Dolce.
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