25 of the Best California Red Wines Under $25
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“Red wine” is a beverage category so unbelievably diverse it can feel like you have to take a class before you go shopping for it. It’s made nearly everywhere in the world, it encompasses the distinct characteristics of thousands of grape varietals, and people get really fetishy and weird about it. Serious, long-lived reds like Cabernet Sauvignon can command exorbitant prices especially when they come from regions with a high cachet factor (Napa Valley, Bordeaux, Burgundy, for example). But there is a vast diversity of really great stuff out there, from Aglianico to Zinfandel, and it doesn’t have to break the bank.
Here are 25 California reds with a really good price-to-quality ratio. They run from light-bodied to very intense, from fruity to leathery, from lighthearted to Extremely Serious. None of them will put you out more than $25. All are excellent dinner companions, friends to grill-tending folk, party-suitable and as reasonable to sip a la carte as to pair with food.
Adelaida Grenache ($20)
Grenache is a widely planted grape that probably originated in Spain. It likes hot, dry conditions (welcome to Paso Robles!) and produces wines with low tannins and a lot of red berry and spice notes-leathery or tarry notes enter the picture with age. Adelaida’s Grenache is a cherry and tobacco affair on the nose, with accents of allspice berries and a hint of cinnamon. The dominant flavor notes are strawberries, orange peel and oolong tea with a little black cherry. Though it’s perfectly happy to hang out with grilled meat, it’s at least as well suited to lighter dishes and since it’s a versatile character it’s a good pick for continuity with a range of tapas or small appetizer-type things (I think it’s great with smoked almonds). Also a great wine for sipping solo, paired with your back porch and a good book.
Ancient Peaks Zinfandel ($18)
I’ve found Zinfandel can provoke a snooty disdain from some people and my contention is that these people do not know what they are talking about. (They might be victims of the dreaded “white zin” that ravaged wedding parties in the 1980s; sometimes prejudice dies a slow, slow death. Properly handled, Zinfandel (Primitivo if you’re in Italy and Crljenak Kaštelanski in Croatia) is a structured, robust red wine that’s very responsive to microclimate-grapes from cooler zones produce markedly different wines from those grown in hot spots. Zin is the heritage grape of California and there are plantings that date to the late 19th century that are still making incredible wine. Ancient Peaks also hails from the Paso Robles AVA, where summers are hot. This wine has a lot of structure and is on the intense side, with an intriguing blueberry and white pepper nose. It has the kind of texture wine people will refer to as “chewy.” The hallmark flavors of blackberries, black cherries and vanilla are strong and there are some spicy finish notes and a hint of something caramelized. This wine is begging for pizza.
Artezin ($15)
A cool-climate Zinfandel from Mendocino County, whose major exports are fog, chilly Pacific wind, and some of my favorite wines. If you’ve never compared a warm-climate Zin to something like this one, do it, because it’s really interesting. Words like “chewy and “jammy” do not come up with this wine; it’s silken and rounded. The nose hints at pomegranates and sour cherries. On the palate, an eccentric mélange of herbaceous and spice notes (I get nutmeg, and something like fenugreek) accompany a cedar and raspberry core. This wine is luscious but crisp and taut. A good friend to blue cheeses, pasta Bolognese, and anything you happen to be applying to an open flame, including Portobello mushrooms.
Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir Santa Barbara ($20)
Pinot Noir is the classic red grape of Burgundy, and has become a staple of California’s coastal-influence AVAs. Santa Barbara’s Au Bon Climat makes a lot of wines that tend to go for a lot more than $25, but don’t think the more affordable price means the quality isn’t great. This is an incredibly versatile food wine and a major crowd-pleaser, light-hearted and casually elegant, with dominant notes of alpine strawberry and plum. Fruity and well-balanced. Seriously, pair it with whatever you happen to be eating.
Baker Lane Sonoma Coast Cuvee Syrah ($20)
Syrah is most famously a Rhone varietal but it’s widely planted in many countries (In Australia and other New World wine regions it is often called Shiraz). It usually makes medium to full-bodied wines with significant tannin. Its flavor profile will depend somewhat on the climate in which it’s grown-this is a coastal climate iteration with sturdy structure (you could probably age it for several years) and an almost meaty character (in fact it’s on the intense side for a cooler climate Syrah). Peppery notes mingle with a bit of olive leaf and a lot of woodsy notes (there’s a hint of earth to it too.) Cranberry and pomegranate are also detectable. This wine’s soulmate is probably grilled lamb, but as always, play around. Good wine is good wine and it’ll tend to tell you what it wants.
Banshee Mordecai Proprietary Red Blend ($24)
Banshee is one of those wineries I kind of don’t like to write about because I don’t want to share. Out of Mendocino County, this red blend contains a wide range of hotter-climate varietals and expresses notes of chocolate and plums, blueberry jam and herbs, tar and baking spice and a blackberry kick that lets you know there’s Zinfandel in there. This is not a light-bodied wine. At all. It’s rich and powerful and frankly kind of a beast-but a charming, elegant beast. It’s a wine that wants to be in a dialogue with red meat, but that doesn’t mean vegetarians should shun it; it will play along beautifully with wild mushrooms, pizza, grilled veggies, and probably a lot of other stuff.
Banshee Sonoma County Pinot Noir ($23)
That’s right. I said I didn’t want to let the Banshee cat out of the bag and I am doing it twice because it’s such a good value and it might not stay that way. It is getting hard to find great Pinot Noir at this price point, to be honest. This one is great. The overwhelming impression I get from it is those red-fleshed Japanese plums, but also, cherry and blueberry and a forest floor character, something woodsy and mossy. A little wild strawberry too. There is a bit of a marine funk to this wine, and it is highly intriguing. It is a red that will happily hang out with seafood dishes, but I wouldn’t rule out turkey. Or duck breast.
Concrete Old Vine Zinfandel ($20)
From the unsexy AVA of Lodi, CA-yes, that Lodi-this Zin comes from vines that are a lot older than you are and the main words that come to mind are “lush” and “high-voltage.” Blackberry for days. Brambly goodness gives way to spice notes, vanilla, and some oaky stuff. Soft tannins, lingering finish. Lavish stuff, and like many a Zinfandel, a great pizza wine. Don’t stop at pizza. At this price you can experiment.
Duckhorn “Decoy” Sonoma Valley Red ($20)
OK: Honesty time. Duckhorn is on my list of wineries I’m not always in a huge hurry to say super nice things about because most of their wine, while very good, is an amazing example of Napa Valley Attitude Pricing Disease, also known as Pretty Damn Big for Your Britches Syndrome. Their Decoy line is a marked exception, so here we go. This is a Merlot based blend, so a velvety texture and a plummy nose are hallmark traits. You’ll also taste blackcurrant, chocolate, cloves and licorice. It’s complex and unfolds beautifully. Another great friend to mushrooms, or if you are someone who like a well-marbled rib eye, you and this bottle have something in common and should get together to discuss it.
Ferrari-Carano Merlot ($20)
When you consider the lifespan of a grapevine and the lifespan of a fad, it is rather incredible to see how prices for Merlot have stayed down ever since they took a knockout punch from Paul Giamatti in Sideways. Truly. People, take advantage of this because it will eventually dust itself off and start pricing itself out of your weeknight dinner range eventually and you’ll wish you’d stored cases of absurdly cheap, super good Merlot bottles. Ferrari-Carano in Sonoma County makes a lovely one, with less plumminess than some Merlots but all the smooth, soft, velvet-like structure. Cherries pop up here, along with blackberry, tea, cedar and cinnamon, a little mocha note on the finish, which is long. This stuff is just so easygoing it’s harder to say what not to pair it with. Have you ever had that thing with the soft polenta and the poached egg in the porcini broth? That. Also pasta. Also anything meaty. Oh. Gazpacho. That’s what I wouldn’t pair it with. I knew there was something.
Gundlach-Bunschu Mountain Cuvee ($20)
One day I was riding a bike near downtown Sonoma and came upon a massive annoying hill that I would have skipped had there not clearly been a pretty old winery up there. I told the guy in the capacious tasting room I was on a bike and couldn’t carry much of anything with me so not to bother pouring a whole flight. Nine wines later, I was signing up for the club membership and wondering why I hadn’t heard of Gundlach-Bundschu. Gun-Bun, as it is known around here, is one of Sonoma’s oldest wineries and still among its best. Most of their juice you will not find available at this price point. The Mountain Cuvee is a happy, happy exception. If Decoy’s Red Blend is the Napa version of a Merlot-Cab fusion, these guys have nailed the Sonoma expression. Full-bodied and a bit smoky, with tar and cigar notes alongside chocolate, cherries and espresso, it is specifically crafted to go with whatever and that is how you should treat it. All the red and black fruits, all the herbs and woods, all the soft, lasting voluptuousness-none of the snoot. One of my favorites.