The entire notion of food-wine pairing dos and don’ts has disintegrated a lot in the past few years, and I say good riddance to it, having always been the type to eat what I feel like eating and drink what I feel like drinking. Hard and fast rules don’t stand up very well to individual taste and mood, and they never did, not even back when a tuxedo-clad sommelier named Jacques informed you of what was and was not acceptable to drink with your sole meunière.
That said, certain ingredients do tend to be a little more challenging than others when it comes to harmonizing nicely with wine. Here are some of the classic offenders…and what to do about them.
Artichokes
The somm’s worst nightmare is often ironically the vegetable that’s been appearing on the plates of wine-besotted Mediterraneans since before Julius Caesar had that really bad day at the Forum. The problem? A compound called cynarin causes anything you eat once you’ve bitten into an artichoke to taste unnaturally sweet. Including wine. The solution? Personal opinion—and it does depend on what you’re eating with or on the artichokes—go for a dry white that expresses a lot of lemon. In Rome, artichokes are often served fried (alla Giuda) and I have found a glass (um, or a bottle) of Greco di Tufo was a very congenial accompaniment. Other very citric whites include Albarino, Garganega (the varietal in Soave), some Sauvignon Blancs (not all! Later harvest or hotter temps will create a more tropical flavor profile). One of my current recommendations is Simi Sauv Blanc 2012—pretty easy to find and very fresh).
Asparagus
Delicious? Yes. But the weirdo acids in asparagus (like the eponymous asparagusic acid) that make your pee smell weird can throw your wine off, too. No one wants that. All that stuff I said about “drink whatever you like”? I’m not taking it back, but I would also suggest that firm reds and oaked whites are a bad call with this tasty but difficult veggie. You want something white, cool-climate, that has not been in a long amorous relationship with an oak barrel. Sancerre is a good option. I’d try Zocker’s Gruner Veltliner, or a very dry (very dry!) Reisling.
Brussels sprouts
The problem with this de rigueur brassica? In a word, sulphur. (This problem covers the whole cruciferous vegetable family, actually, so refer to this if you are pairing with cabbage or broccoli). The solution? Actually, Gruner Veltliner isn’t a bad call here, either. It’s herbaceous and it stands up with strong vegetal flavors. I also think “orange” wines are a good call here (Beauregard’s Pinot Gris has a pronounced bitter-almond character that shows the Sprout who’s boss).