Malaysian designer Moto Guo has had a rather impressive year so far. He was shortlisted as a semi-finalist for the highly coveted LVMH Prize (the first-ever Malaysian designer to do so) and named one of this year’s leading trendsetter’s by Nuyou Magazine; he’s also one of our latest obsessions here at Paste. And at only 24 years old, that’s all quite an accomplishment.
It was during one of my first trips to Kuala Lumpur that I first discovered Guo, with his unconventional, distorted silhouettes and geeky schoolboy aesthetics. He immediately secured a place on my radar as a designer to watch, but has seen transformed himself into a global sensation thanks to this year’s competition.
Though he didn’t go on to win the LVMH Prize, he is one young talent who won’t be slacking off anytime soon. His collections are odd and imaginative, and he constantly looks for new ways to sideline the norms of the global fashion industry with boundary-pushing concepts (like covering his models with acne marks for his Spring/Summer 2017 runway show).
I had the chance to meet up with the designer before one of his Spring/Summer 2017 runway shows, where we talked about the moment he discovered he was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize, his quirky aesthetics and approach to design and how he maintains motivation on the go.
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Paste: Earlier this year, you were shortlisted as a semi-finalist for the LVMH Prize and the first Malaysian designer to ever do so. How did that make you feel?
Moto Guo: Extremely surreal! [Laughs.] Well, we first thought it was a scam. We had never ever expected that we could make it, so we literally Googled everything that turned up in the e-mail from LVMH Prize director Mark Alizart. And, after some research, it turned out to be real—and the most surreal thing that has ever happened in my life so far.
Paste: I’ve been following your work since you launched your label in 2015. When I’m in Malaysia, there are always so many people raving about your work. Why do you think people are attracted to your aesthetic?
Guo: I guess they get the humor behind most of my work—but I also hope they catch the sarcasm as well.
Paste:For me, it’s always been the fun, quirky way you make your silhouettes both distorted and textural. How would you describe your sort of “design personality”?
Guo: Quaint and humorous.
Paste: What do you think inspired that?
Guo: Probably my own personality.
Paste: Do you think you’re “quaint and humorous,” too?
Guo: Well, I can be quite nerdy in many ways, so yes, definitely quaint and wacky. Humorous or not, I’m not really sure—my friends can probably tell you that better than I can.
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Paste: I can definitely see several recurring tones of this in your Spring/Summer 2016 collection. Why do you think it’s so important to you that your clothes have a sense of humor and sarcasm?
Guo: My work is inspired by my own experiences. I have always believed that each collection should be an extension of myself—my life, my individuality, my everything. It is always so interesting for me to observe and look into all of these and how people can understand me differently through my work. For example, my Spring/Summer 2016 collection called “But Do Not Blame Lulu” was inspired by identity crisis, which was actually sort of poking fun at one of my closest friends who was going through an identity crisis during that time and I found it difficult to be close with her anymore (but now we are all cool, of course). [Laughs.]
Paste:Is it hard to continue finding new ways to weave those concepts into new collections?
Guo: Not really. The only way for me to form new ideas is to keep observing, researching and self-actualizing, and the thoughts just seem to pop out by themselves at the right time.
Paste:That seems like a rather casual approach. What do you think of the more studied, academic types of fashion?
Guo: I think there should be a balance between the two. Not everyone has the capability to take a casual approach to fashion, such as myself; I did not have a strong fashion education experience, so I needed to work extra hard to achieve my goals.
Paste:Was there a particular designer to influenced your work during those days?
Guo: I really looked up to Walter Van Beirendonck—I adore the way he thinks.
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Paste: What about him has inspired you most?
Guo: His point of view, really. For example, I love how he pushes the boundaries by using sexually provocative materials and elements in his work, but he manages to present them in a way that’s wearable and interesting; I adore his originality.
Paste: How do you think you respond if you met him randomly?
Guo: I would probably give him a big, fat hug! [Laughs.]
Paste: What would you ask him?
Guo: “Can I work for you?” [Laughs.]
Paste: Your recent Fall/Winter 2016 collection, “The Pencil Pusher,” illustrated a wacky office worker confined to the cubicle life as a pencil pusher. What sort of story will you be telling with your upcoming Spring/Summer 2017 collection?
Guo: What you will see is a kids picnic themed collection with a backstory that conveys the importance of teamwork and how it works to prevent being sabotaged by the reality and hypocrisy of the society (fashion industry).
Paste: Whoa, that’s a lot to work with – I’m excited to see how it turns out! Was this inspired by an experience in your own life?
Guo: Yes it is. But it’s as simple as me realizing the importance of teamwork after surviving four seasons in this industry.
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Paste: And important would you say teamwork is in this industry?
Guo: Very important, it’s really what makes all the gears keep moving and spinning. One can never work solo for too long in the fashion industry.
Paste: How did you highlight this story in your designs?
Guo: As usual, there will be a number of subliminal messages appearing on the pieces. There’s a funny but lovely detail literally inspired by my business partner; it’s not necessarily related to the “teamwork” but I love it. There’s also a punctuation meme embroidered on the knitted napkin tops, because he always forgets to write punctuation in his e-mails.
Paste: Do you have a favorite piece?
Guo: We continue to use the subliminal face pattern on our pieces for S/S 2017; this time, though, the disgusted face from F/W 2016 will turn into an adorable one this season, and the application of it is has also been given a visible yet surprising change.
Paste: This year alone, you’ve been back and forth between Kuala Lumpur and Paris, working on your collections and forming new partnerships. How do you keep yourself motivated and creative when you’re constantly on the go?
Guo: Be in love!
Paste: What do you mean?
Guo: Be in love with something or someone around you, work hard for it (or them); that’s one of the motivations that really keeps me moving.
Brent Taalur Ramsey is an American fashion writer living in Paris.