Travel by Mouth: Eating Our Way through Detroit’s Most Famous Foods

“Get Out There” is a column for itchy footed humans written by long-time Paste contributor Blake Snow. Although different now, travel is better than ever. Today we compare Detroit’s most famous foods and eateries.

At its peak in the 1950’s, Detroit manufactured 80% of the world’s cars, making it the richest city on Earth (and fourth largest in America). After foreign cars toppled said dominance in the following decades, Motor City’s star undeniably dimmed. But like Rome before it, Detroit left a lasting legacy on the world and continues to shine and influence it today, despite its reduced stature.

Along the way, Detroit invented a number of fantastic foods that rival the other great Midwest food city (Hi, Chicago). After all, no one becomes this powerful without bestowing at least a few morsels of deliciousness upon the culinary world. Since I regularly travel for food, when I read about Detroit’s most famous bites, I knew I had to try them. And I knew I had to compare the best of the best and report my findings to anyone willing to listen, if not follow my footsteps.

Spoiler alert: all but one food was worth writing home about. What then is Detroit known for eating-wise? And which of its distinct foods are worth traveling for? This is what tops the list: Four-sided, thick-crusted Detroit-style pizza, “Coney Island” chili dogs, ginger ale milkshakes (aka “Boston Coolers”), twice-baked rye bread, and my personal favorite: buttery “zip sauce” that might change the way you steak.

Detroit Pizza: Buddy’s vs Shield’s

If there’s one Detroit food that’s crossed state lines more than any other, it’s Detroit-style pizza. Not to be confused with Chicago deep dish, Detroit style crust is actually thicker, more bready, and more crispy like Focaccia bread. Texture wise, it might be the most delectable type of pizza you’ll ever eat—flimsy New York style very much included.

Which explains why Detroit style has increasingly become popular, if not iconic, over the last decade. First invented by Buddy’s Pizza in 1940s downtown Detroit, the pizza’s mozzarella and Wisconsin brick cheese blend caramelizes right to the edge—no discarded crust here. To make it even more badass, the pizza was traditionally baked in rectangular steel trays designed for automotive drip pans and factory parts.

Although Shield’s Pizza is actually deeper, more bready, and more generous with the cheese, I prefer Buddy’s more balanced and crispier approach. It’s five star perfection all the way, although Shield’s is still four and a half stars overall, especially during their discounted lunch special. If in town, I recommend trying both.

Blake Snow

Coney Dogs: American vs Lafayette

Like the city’s great Ford versus Chevrolet rivalry, the chili dog contest between American Coney Island and Lafayette Coney Island is nearly as legendary. Served on a soft, sweet bun and smothered in chili, diced onion, and mustard, these franks are fantastic. And for the last 100 years, they live right next door to each other on a wonderful triangular corner of town.

In terms of overall flavor and snappiness, I prefer the $4 American dog over the $3.75 Lafayette dog. But the latter does have slightly spicy chili, which I enjoyed. Like Detroit-style pizza, you owe it to yourself to try both before deciding. And if you really want to round-out your opinion, consider Duly’s Place on the outskirts of town, which is like the third place, slightly cheaper, but still competitive “Chrysler” of the bunch.

Zip Sauce: Andiamo’s vs Louie’s

Before visiting Detroit, I believed conventional culinary wisdom that the best steak is served only with salt on top, if not a finishing slab of butter—no sauce needed. After trying the city’s melt-in-your-mouth “zip sauce,” however, I’ve changed my tune. This condiment is a buttery, flavor-enhancing beef revelation.

Invented by Mario Lelli in the 1940’s as a way to differentiate his filets, zip sauce is the “steak lover’s steak sauce.” It’s since become a Detroit staple. For the most divine version of this butter-based beef au jus, head to Detroit renowned Andiamo’s, which served the best ribeye of my life with it. Get the sauce on the side, if you don’t believe me. Dip your bread in it or smother your mashed potatoes with it. Drink it if you must. Just don’t miss it.

For comparison, in arguably the coolest downtown dining room, try the onion glazed steak tips and Texas toast swimming in zip sauce from Downtown Louie’s. I get happy just thinking about this stuff.

Boston Cooler: Mercury vs Kerby’s

Dessert anyone? Despite the name, the “Boston Cooler” is a Detroit original. It’s basically a ginger ale milkshake or float. But even that’s not a fair description, since Boston Coolers are exclusively made with Detroit’s own Vernor’s Ginger Ale. Unlike most ginger ales, Vernor’s tastes like a mix between ginger ale and cream soda, which makes for a fantastic pairing when blended or floated with vanilla ice cream.

For the best concoction of this Detroit invention, head to Mercury Burger Bar and have them top this delectable milkshake with fresh cream. In a pinch, you can also try it float-style at Kerby’s Koney Island. Or kill two birds with one stone and wash down your meal with a cooler from Buddy’s Pizza. Just be sure to mix your floats well for the full effect if you don’t get the milkshake version.

Twice Baked Rye: Stage vs Bread Basket

Twice (or double) baked rye was invented by Stage Deli founder Jack Goldberg on the outskirts of Detroit in the 1960s. Like zip sauce, the bread was invented as a way to differentiate Stage’s sandwiches from other delis. Whereas most delis had their warm bread delivered in the morning, then served cold during the lunch rush, Goldberg had his baker partially cook his rye until 80% done, then finished the baking process at his deli to serve his sandwiches warm. Customers loved it.

While I appreciate Goldberg’s ingenuity, if I’m really being honest, twice baked rye tastes no different than normal rye. It’s certainly not worth traveling for. But if in town, the reubens or other deli staples served on them are certainly worth trying for the novelty alone—either from Stage’s or Bread Basket Deli in downtown.

In between all of the succulent food, I’d be remiss not to mention the proud but still humble and friendly Detroiters I encountered on my epic three day food tour. That includes everyone from the hotel staff and servers, to local patrons and the nicest Uber drivers you’ll find anywhere in the country. In this gritty, classic, and endearing city, come for the food. But stay for the people. They are inspiring survivors of the American Dream. 💪

Blake Snow contributes to fancy publications and Fortune 500 companies as a bodacious writer-for-hire and frequent travel columnist. He lives in Provo, Utah with his teenage family and two dogs.