It took the world a long time to discover Patagonia, the trendy adventure area shared by both southern Chile and Argentina. While other mountaineers had been hiking and climbing the Alps and Rockies for over a century, Patagonia wasn’t explored much until the 1980s. In fact, the recreational area didn’t become mainstream until the 21st century, when more accessible transportation, lodging and tourist amenities were finally added.
What’s all the fuss about? In between knife-like mountains, this is arguably the best place in the world to see moving glaciers. It is also a great place to meet gentle but playful people.
Last month I had the chance to examine this hauntingly majestic land up close on guided tour with National Geographic Adventures, the society’s active tour operator. Spoiler alert: it was a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Here’s what I witnessed hiking to what some call South America’s greatest “national park.”
Surreal Summits
When people say they’re “going to Patagonia,” they usually mean the massifs of either Torres Del Paine (pronounced “Piney”) in Chile or Fitz Roy in Argentina. After all, greater Patagonia is nearly twice the size of Texas and mostly barren.
What makes these mountains so special, then? 1) Both have vertical drops of around 10,000 feet from the viewing floor, which appears more impressive than mountains of equal height but with lesser prominence. 2) These peaks are more like steeples than the traditional triangles you’re used to seeing. Like mountain-sized shanks dusted with powdered sugar. This effect makes them appear more sinister than other ranges. Indeed, one indigenousness interpretation of Paine reputedly means “don’t go there.”
But like an insect attracted to electric blue light, you’ll be drawn to the famous “W” hike around Paine’s greatest features: Gray Glacier, French Valley, Los Cuernos, and the namesake three-pronged towers (or torres), one of the most magnificent viewpoints on the planet.
Until you get to nearby Fitz Roy. Although I adore the Grand Tetons, the combination of Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy peaks (pictured) are 2-3 times as grand as the former. I can see why an entire outdoor company was named for this place.
Forces of Nature
Before you enter either Torres Del Paine or Glaciares National Parks, you’ll be properly introduced to wind like you’ve never heard, felt or seen before. You can hear it as it howls up to 60-100 miles per hour. You can feel it as it almost (and sometimes) knocks you down. And you’ll see it in sideways growing trees, oddly shaped stratocumlus clouds racing across the sky, and water spouts or sheets of mist that cross emerald lakes in airborne waves.
The prevailing wind is so forceful here, even the stalactites of Milodon Cave are bent. In short, my respect for and awareness of wind grew considerably on this trip. So did my appreciation for rainbows. While driving to the interior from Punta Arenas, I counted eight rainbows in a two-hour period. Two doubles even. This friendly occurrence endeared almost as much as the wind. So intense.
