Drinking Cheap: 20 White Wines Under $25
Merlin BungartIt’s the middle of summer. It’s hot. And you’d like something to drink. There’s no need to spend an entire paycheck on something to sip on. In fact, you can score quite a few fantastic white whites – perfect for summer — for under $25.
My current draft picks for whites that won’t slaughter your budget goes way beyond the obligatory Chardonnay (in fact, a killer Napa Chard is what you are not going to get for under $25) and reaches into some very familiar and some less familiar varietals and regions. All are obtainable without a ton of trouble, though some producers are larger and some smaller, and some will be likely to grace the chilled section of your supermarket beverage aisle while others you might have to order (if it’s one of the less ubiquitous ones it is internet-orderable and worth it; no one has to high tail it to the Basque Country or a remote corner of Slovakia for any of these). Keep an eye out for these guys.
Abbazia di Novacella Alto Adige Kerner ($19)
Anyone keeping score at home will have noticed that I have a bit of a fetish for the Alto Adige region of northeastern Italy. This Kerner is one reason why. A German grape with some Riesling parentage, good Kerners have a crisp, dry, appley nature and are green-gold in the glass. This one’s a beauty, with a peach note and a good balance between opulence and restraint. Which is what we’re all looking for, aren’t we?
Albastrele Sauvignon Blanc ($15)
This yellow-gold, bracing wine hails from Moldova (but trust me, you don’t have to fly there to get it.) Like New Zealand, Chile and South Africa, Moldova has serious wine at amazing prices for the value. This is an example. Citrusy, grassy, lightly mineral. Perfect summer afternoon sip.
Alois Lageder Chardonnay ($17)
Pretty sure you hate Chardonnay? Don’t be too sure. Chardonnay’s one of the great shapeshifters of the grape world and this one, another pick from my pals in Alto Adige, is lively, but soft and rounded, without that buttercream thing. Unoaked. White peach, honeysuckle, tangerine zest. Long happy finish.
Champalou Vouvray ($22)
Vouvray wines come from the Loire Valley and are made from Chenin Blanc grapes. It is fruity, layered, and I don’t want to say off-dry but it has a teensy little bit of a sweet finish. Not syrupy. Yummy. Heady floral nose, orange and a touch of hazelnut. Super versatile and food friendly, also wonderful all by itself because it is 5:06 on a Tuesday.
Coeur de Terre Pinot Gris ($17)
Oregon’s main exports may be timber and ironic beards, but their wine scene is on the move. This Willamette Valley Pinot Gris is a playful wine that doesn’t take itself too seriously even though it could be forgiven for doing so. Great depth, unfolding notes of grapefruit, melon and tangerine, wonderful balanced acidity. A killer picnic wine.
Donkey and Goat Grenache Blanc ($24)
One of my favorite grapes from one of my favorite Bay Area producers: Donkey and Goat is a small shop and depending where you live, you might encounter it in your local Whole Foods or it might be on the “You need to order it” list, but for heaven’s sake do it. Supple, sexy, and bone dry, this wine’s a paean to stone fruits and honey. Great minerality. Lots of personality. So good.
D’orta e Concilliis Falanghina ($24.99)
I’ve written about this amazing Campanian white before, but it bears repeating. A sultry light bodied, pale wine, it delivers an amazing bouquet of peaches and nectarines and pretty white flowers but when you taste it, there’s virtually no fruit on the palate. Medium bodied and highly mineral, with notes of sea air. If you see it anywhere, grab it.
FEL pinot Gris ($25)
Pinot Gris is a beautiful grape with many wonderful expressions – this one delivers a nice bouquet of apple, pear and quince and segues into a tangerine sort of thing with a good deal of something granite-like. Lingering. But it will not linger at your dinner table.
Frescobaldi Pomino Bianco ($15)
The white Supertuscan! This is a very well-thought-out blend of chardonnay and pinot bianco that brings out the best in both. Straw-hued with a slight green reflex. Substantial but not heavy, with typical Pinot apple notes and typical tropical notes of Chardonnay. There’s a bit of neroli or bergamot, a bit of oak but not too much, great minerality. A steal at the price and a really unique wine.
Gundlach Bunschu 2013 Gewurtztraminer ($22.50)
It is a testament to how much I love “Gun-Bun” that I am calling out a Gewurztraminer on this list at all – I rarely find one I like. This Sonoma take on what is often a cloying mess of a grape is gorgeously aromatic – put it to your nose and you’ll be hit with everything from jasmine to ginger and allspice. From there it’s mostly a tangerine and lychee affair with a tiny bit of nectarine. Yum.
Hendry Albarino ($20)
Napa is not known for acidic, aromatic whites, so I am happy to note that Hendry’s going for it with this Spanish mainstay. Lemon, lemon and lemon, with some peppery notes and a nice florality (I get lime blossom). Light, acidic, food friendly. There are a ton of wonderful Albarinos from Spain – it’s just so nice to see one coming out of Napa at an affordable price point I had to say something.