American whiskey geeks may have noticed a seismic tremor roll through the hype sphere a few weeks back, and wondered at its origin. Suffice to say, it was Buffalo Trace of course, announcing the arrival of a new expansion to the famed Weller line of wheated bourbons. With that said, this isn’t another entry in the growing W.L. Weller family tree, or a sister to the annual, cask strength and highly prized William Larue Weller, which is a member of the company’s Antique Collection. Rather, this is Daniel Weller, and it represents the launch of a new biennial (every two years) series of experimental wheated bourbons. Oh, and it carries a $500 MSRP, so buckle up.
Daniel Weller is named for the titular Weller family patriarch, who first brought the clan to Kentucky in 1794. There he quickly began whiskey production, like other Wellers before and since. His grandson? That was W.L. Weller, credited as one of the first to sell “wheated” bourbon in Kentucky. As for this new brand, it was apparently ticketed to become a release in the company’s Experimental Collection series, before being spun off into its own new line, in a newly designed bottle. The inaugural release was distilled on the company’s E.H. Taylor Jr. Microstill, “a combination pot and column still,” has been aged for almost 12 years, and specifically highlights the ancient species known as Emmer wheat, a grain crop that had pivotal importance in feeding the ancient Egyptian empire. The resulting bourbon, a deviation from the famous Buffalo Trace wheated bourbon mash bill, is bottled at 47% ABV (94 proof).
Now, one naturally has to invite the obvious comparison to the 12 year expression of W.L. Weller, which technically still carries an MSRP of $40–I remember buying a bottle in college for my roommate for even less than this, and thinking that I was splurging. A jump to a $500 MSRP is obviously massive, for a whiskey of similar age and proof. It implies that the difference in wheat species alone is worth such a change, which would probably be a hard thing to argue with such a huge price gap. And yet, one can’t really treat W.L. Weller 12 Year as a “$40 bottle” with any seriousness, not after years of rampant inflation and price gouging in the whiskey world. Whether it should or not, W.L. Weller 12 Year is a bottle that goes for $250-300 these days, both on the secondary market and on store shelves, as package store owners are desperate to take advantage of those secondary prices for themselves. With that in mind, the $500 price tag for Daniel Weller draws closer to the harsh reality of where the bourbon world is right now. At the very least, this price has been set high enough that it should greatly reduce the amount of profit to be made trying to resell Daniel Weller on the secondary market.
So, with all that said, let’s actually get into tasting the stuff.
On the nose, Daniel Weller’s first signature is a bouquet of big, bright orange zest, combined with caramel and a dash of nutmeg. I’m getting some roasted nuttiness, but also an unmistakable grain-forward impression from the wheat. This is an interesting grainy character that splits the difference between more earthy and “doughy.” It evokes some of the notes one often finds in younger wheated bourbons, but with an X-factor of complexity that makes it significantly more interesting, in my opinion. It’s not a bombastic nose overall, but it’s quite pleasant and about assertive enough for the proof point.
On the palate, initial impressions turn toward caramel and sugared espresso roastiness, along with mild fruitiness suggesting apple and pear. I’m getting some ginger ale-like spice, and the twist of orange is still hanging around as well, with an overall profile that moves steadily from the sweeter front end into a bold and oaky back end with moderate tannin and a little leather. And, not to be forgotten, all throughout there’s also a sweet grainy/breadiness that permeates the sip, receding and peeking up from different angles. The Emmer wheat genuinely has seemed to provide a unique bready/doughy characteristic that turns a flavor component often cited as a detraction in younger whiskeys–overt graininess–into more of a feature. Call it grainy complexity, if you will. Ethanol, meanwhile, is fairly mild, about where it should be for the relatively inviting proof point.
My primary takeaway here is that Daniel Weller has an interesting profile, one that engages me mentally as I think about the influence of an uncommon ingredient laden with history. It’s a bourbon that I think would be quite easy for most drinkers to enjoy, highly accessible if not overflowing with flavor. Personally? I wouldn’t be likely to drop $500 on it, but there’s almost nothing I will spend that much on in the whiskey world, so perhaps that’s not saying much. There will be drinkers out there who go out of their way to acquire a bottle of this and end up disappointed that the proof isn’t at a bolder level, or that the graininess makes itself felt, but I would argue that those drinkers are likely missing the point of the concept. Celebration of Emmer wheat was the goal here, and Daniel Weller does that in an interesting and engaging way. In that sense, it delivers exactly how it’s meant to deliver. Now good luck finding some to taste.
Distillery: Buffalo Trace
City: Frankfort, KY
Style: Kentucky straight bourbon whiskey
ABV: 47% (94 proof)
Availability: Limited, 750 ml bottles, $500 MSRP
Jim Vorel is a Paste staff writer and resident beer and liquor geek. You can follow him on Twitter for more drink writing.