As I wrote last year when whiskey industry powerhouse MGP introduced its first expression of Remus Gatsby Reserve:
At the end of the day, it should come as no surprise to American whiskey and bourbon geeks that MGP of Indiana would eventually develop a house brand worthy of great critical acclaim. After all, their sourced bourbons and rye whiskeys have for years and decades helped to build the profiles of countless other distilleries large and small, and it was only the distillery’s business model that kept MGP from receiving the lion’s share of the credit for all those years when it was primarily known as a purveyor of sourced whiskey. When the George Remus brand launched a few years ago, it was immediately clear that this was going to be the in-house showcase that MGP bourbon had always needed, and subsequent releases have done nothing but illustrate how great their spirit really is. And now, the series has arguably reached its apex, with the release of Remus Gatsby Reserve.
What Gatsby Reserve essentially represented was an official MGP bottling of the sort of extra-matured Indiana bourbon that was once found only in the portfolio of non-distiller producers, first leading to considerable hype for MGP’s spirit in the 2000s. Now, that kind of product has finally been brought in-house, albeit perhaps at a lower proof point than some of the previous cask-strength MGP bottles collectors once chased. And frankly, I thought it was a smashing success–although 2022’s batch of Gatsby Reserve seemed to be on the divisive side, with some reviewers saying they found it overly oaked or tannic in particular, it didn’t read that way to me at all. In fact, I liked the first batch of Remus Gatsby Reserve so much that it ended up in my list of the best whiskeys of 2022. Can this expression live up to that same level?
In terms of what is in this bottle, this is a blend of two of MGP’s vaunted high-rye mash bills, one that is 75% corn, 21% rye and 4% malted barley, and another that is 60% corn, 36% rye, 4% malted barley. It carries a minimum 15 year age statement, and was bottled at a cask strength of 98.1 proof (49.05% ABV), meaning these barrels (like last year) had lost fairly significant amounts of ethanol while aging. Like last year, it carries a $200 MSRP–steep for certain, but when Wild Turkey is asking $450 for their latest limited release, it somehow looks like a value. Regardless, it belongs to a top pricing tier that can often rise even higher thanks to price-gouging retailers.
So with that said, let’s get to tasting and see how the 2023 Remus Gatsby Reserve Bourbon holds up.
On the nose, this one displays wood-forward character, along with candied fruitiness and deeply caramelized sugars. I’m getting baked orchard fruit up front, but also a lot of earthiness/leatheriness, offset by dark brown sugar. The rye presence is also certainly there, creeping in with faint rye bread and herbal-tinged spice, along with more prominent nutty cacao nib. Oak runs as a constant presence throughout, suggesting antique furniture. The whole thing is a little on the dusty side, with a definite impression of advanced age.
On the palate, sweet oak presents first up front, with dark brown sugar, candied ginger and dried fruitiness. A strong sense of char slips in immediately after, turning slightly toward the bitter side, along with leather and significant drying tannin on each sip. The oak has a slightly tangy dimension to it–it is a serious oakiness, “brooding” might be the word. This is definitely “adult” bourbon, something that feels like it would be at home in an antiquarian’s study with all his maps and leather-bound tomes. Syrupy dark fruit notes are a nice complement, though the overall profile presents as only mild-to-moderate in sweetness. It finishes with herbal rye notes and musty oak, some pepper and a kiss of charred astringency.
This is the kind of bourbon where I appreciate the nuance and depth of oakiness on display here, while simultaneously see how some will likely decry those same elements. I don’t think it’s too much, and I don’t think the dryness of the finish is a problem for me, but you can see it’s venturing in the direction of that territory. Likewise, I can see some fans wanting for a bolder overall flavor profile–which would theoretically come with a higher proof point–at this kind of MSRP level in a limited release bourbon. That again is not personally an issue for me: I believe that limited release whiskeys should probably encompass a wider range of strengths and profiles rather than solely being big, explosive bruisers. Remus Gatsby Reserve is more of a contemplative sipper. I don’t know if this one can quite match last year’s first expression, but oak lovers in particular will find a lot to enjoy regardless.
Distillery: George Remus (MGP of Indiana/Ross & Squibb)
City: Lawrenceburg, IN
Style: Straight bourbon whiskey
ABV: 49.05% (98.1 proof)
Availability: Limited, 750 ml bottles, $200 MSRP
Jim Vorel is a Paste staff writer and resident brown liquor geek. You can follow him on Twitter for more drink writing.
