In Praise of California Cabernets (the Ones That Aren’t From Napa)
Photos via La Crema
News flash, for anyone living under a rock since 1976 when the Judgement of Paris turned a sleepy American viticultural region into an overnight sensation: Napa produces killer Cabernet. Wines that can go toe-to-toe with every other iconic wine region in the world. Wines that pair with steaks, frites and good times … and trust funds or cushy hedge fund jobs. Because paying the average $107.79 per bottle price that Napa Cabernet Sauvignon commands makes enjoying it regularly impossible for anyone who doesn’t perch comfortably in the upper echelon of the 1%.
Thankfully, there are plenty of great, terroir-driven Cabernet Sauvignons that also pair well with steaks, frites and good times … and clock in at less than $50. Often, much less! And although your wallet will definitely thank you, your palate may too. It’s worth noting too that amid the ravages of climate change and increasing temperatures, Napa is considered to be a less-ideal region for Cabernet Sauvignon than it has historically been. So read on for the best non-Napa sources for Cabernet Sauvignon in California.
Go to Paso Robles for Brightness and Ageability
Paso Robles is an extraordinarily diverse region, with more than 60 different grape varietals under vine. Paso is situated on the inland side of the Santa Lucia coastal mountains, and forms a rectangle that spans 35 miles east to west, and 25 miles north to south. The region’s western boundary is six miles from the Pacific Ocean. Many of the microclimates there are blessed with ideal conditions for growing Cabernet Sauvignon.
“We have rolling hills with heavier clay soils that see a lot of sun and warmth during the day, as well as mountainous areas that are laden with heavy rock and calcareous soil that harbor a variety of microclimates,” says Kip Lorenzetti, winemaker at Chronic Cellars. “This diversity creates Cabs that can be bright and fruit-driven with fine tannins, as well as dark and opulent wines with heavy sage and blue fruit notes shored up by firm and chewy tannins.”
Jonathan Nagy, director of winemaker for Miller Family Wine Company, says that the soils of Paso lend elegance and depth to the Cabernet that grows there.
“The soils at our French Camp vineyard are alluvial, which lends itself to making wines that are linear in structure,” Nagy says. “The extremely warm days—often north of 100 degrees—help develop ripe jammy flavors and rich tannins. But the extreme diurnal shift at night and the temperature drop allows the grapes to maintain acidity even with jammy flavors.”
Abigail Estrada, winemaker at TEXTBOOK Vineyards, says she has seen a number of Napa producers move into Paso recently.
“My love of Cabernet is ultimately the reason I put down roots in Napa,” Estrada says. “I make a few Cabs from different AVAs across California, but our largest bottling is TEXTBOOK Paso Robles Cabernet. In the last few years, we’ve watched an influx of Napa winemakers head down to Paso Robles and other California regions. I think winemakers are intrinsically innovative – we want to be ahead of the climate change curve and ensure we’re always producing the best wines possible, for the long-term.”
Chronic’s Sir Real Cabernet retails for $19.99, delivering balanced acidity and tannin structure, which means it’s a great bet now, but will also age well for years to come.
Miller Wine’s Pandemonium retails for $39.99, and delivers rich and ripe fruit that still feels bright, lithe and fresh.
TEXTBOOK’s Paso Cab retails for $24 and is full of bright red fruit, floral notes and incredible acidity, which makes it highly ageable.
Go to Sonoma for Fruit Driven, Complex Wines
Sonoma is Napa’s neighbor—you just have to cross the Mayacamas mountain range to get there. There are 19 distinct wine appellations within Sonoma County, each of which has its own set of unique weather and soil. Some of the most famous for growing Cabernet Sauvignon include Alexander Valley and Dry Creek.
Lisa Valtenberg, winemaker at La Crema Winery, says she takes a light touch in the cellar, eager to let Sonoma’s incredible assets shine through in the glass. She says she fermented the grapes at a cooler temperature, and eased up on oak aging to guarantee fresh fruit flavors and supple tannins.
“Sonoma is generally cooler than Napa, which means a longer ripening season, resulting in more balance and complexity,” Valtenbrg says. “Our Cabernet Sauvignon is predominantly from Alexander Valley with a combination of some mountain vineyards and some valley floor sites and then a few areas in Dry Creek.”
This is La Crema’s first foray into Cabernet, having achieved incredible success with Pinot Noir. But because of Sonoma’s climate and soils, she believes the grape—and other Bordeaux varietals, like Sauvignon Blanc, have a “bright future” there.
Others are equally bullish on Cabernet in Sonoma.
“Alexander Valley has alluvial soils, and that and the climate produce wines that are more fruit driven,” says Dennis Kreps, owner of Walking Tree, and co-owner of wine importer Quintessential. “They are not as structured as Cabernets in Napa, and tend to show a brightness and more red fruit.”
La Crema’s Cabernet Sauvignon retails for $45 and offers pops of red fruit, rich blue fruit flavors, juicy tannins and light spice.
Walking Tree’s Cabernet Sauvignon retails for $29.99, with notes of blackberries, strawberries and spice.
Go to Temecula for Silky Textures, Finesse
The Temecula Valley is 22 miles from the Pacific Ocean, and is surrounded by mountains. Vineyards are sun-kissed, but thanks to the breezes passing between mountain passes and their elevations of between 1,000 and 2,000 feet, the grapes grown there are able to maintain freshness, while ripening fully.
“Our terroir in Temecula tends to produce a softer style of Cabernet,” says Tim Kramer, winemaker at Leoness Cellars. “It’s very fruit forward and easily approachable when young. I think most people find Temecula Cabs easy to enjoy when they’re newly bottled.”
At Baily Vineyard and Winery, vintner Phil Baily aims to use Temecula’s assets for lower-alcohol, brighter wines that emphasize elegance and finesse over boldness and power. Baily is also sourcing from a vineyard with Clone 7 Cabernet, which originated from Bordeaux’s famed Chateaux Margaux in the 1890s (via cuttings grown by Wente Bros. Winery in the Livermore Valley).
“We pick our grapes at moderate sugar levels and have the wines undergo longer barrel aging to produce more complex aromas and integrated tannins,” he says. “Our vineyards are 20 miles inland at 1,500 feet in elevation. The gap in the coastal range to the west, and cooling ocean breezes keep the grapes cool.”
Leoness’ Cabernet retails for $49, and delivers blackberries, boysenberries, lavender, olives and soft tannins.
Baily’s Cabernet retails for $45, and offers warm red and black fruit, subtle herbaceous qualities, mint and silky smooth tannins.
Go Wide: Unshackled
Wineries that could easily source from one particular region, go wide, in a bid to showcase the best characteristics of the Golden State in one year.
At Unshackled, which is part of The Prisoner Wine Company’s portfolio of brands, head of winemaking Chrissy Wittmann says they sought out their favorite vineyards from Monterey, Santa Ynez Valley and Santa Barbara for the 2021 vintage.
“The state of California as an appellation has given our winemaking team the most freedom possible as we craft our Unshackled wines and their distinct style,” Wittmann says. “Despite the broad appellation, we are sourcing from the best regions in the North and Central Coasts. We have deliberately crafted Unshackled to be brighter, fresher and even more approachable with a fruit forward style that consumers gravitate towards.”
Unshackled’s Cabernet retails for $26 and delivers fresh plum, blackberries, dark stone fruit and dried herbs.
There are a lot of wallet-friendly, bright and fresh Cabernets out there that do feel more of the moment than the high-ABV powerhouse opulence that classic Napa Cabs frequently deliver these days.
Bottoms up!