In the winter months, plenty of people head south for a break from the cold weather, but this Southern lady decided to head to the frozen north—namely Alberta, Canada.
Unless you love to ski, I don’t know of many people who fly north to enjoy a cold snap on purpose, but now I think I will be taking a winter break every year. Beyond the advantages to off-season travel that we’ve written about before in Paste, there’s something to be said for really experiencing a true winter, and if you live in a part of the world where that requires travel, so be it.
My first thought when I landed in Calgary was how much it reminded me of my childhood in the midwest—flat, snowy, and you could see for miles. But there is so much more to do in Alberta than sit in your room watching the snow—even if that is a treat since it so rarely snows where I live. While I stayed at a very nice hotel, The Dorian, it was the activities outside of the mainstream that I will cherish.
Before this trip, I don’t believe I have ever learned about Indigenous art from an Indigenous woman. I spent an afternoon at Moonstone Creation and was surrounded by the works of Native artisans they have curated for their gallery. Even though I was surrounded by gorgeous beading, moccasins, and paintings, it was just as exciting and enriching to create my own art during the class.
Until the moment I sat down, I had no idea that fish scales could be used for art. I wrongly assumed the scales were trash, but it turns out they are anything but. I sat down at the table with my instructor and other would-be artists and found dishes filled with these brightly colored scales. Moonstone Creation actually collects them from fishers in their community who save the scales for them. No part of the fish goes to waste. Originally dyed fish scales were used as decoration for clothing, attached with glue made from moose hooves. This method of decoration predates beading and was often preferred. Now the methods are modernized, with glue from the craft store, and store bought dye, but the method of saving the scales and the act of creating the art are as old as time.
As I sat with tweezers and glue trying (poorly) to create something that looked like a flower with the scales, the instructor discussed the difference between appreciation (e.g. this is amazing, I’m going to buy your art and tell everyone about your store) and appropriation (e.g. I’m going to copy your art and sell it as mine for a profit). As a white woman, I’m willing to admit that I’m not always sure where that line is and it can feel uncomfortable discussing it with others. That was not the case here. A conversation was had where I mostly listened, and left the better for it.
In addition to creating art followed by Saskatoon berry tea, I headed north to Jasper. This mountain town is north of the more famous Banff and Lake Louise, but no less breathtaking. I stayed near downtown Jasper at the Forest Park Hotel where I enjoyed a huge suite and balcony overlooking the mountains. While the views were breathtaking through the window, I wanted to get out into the snow. I bundled up and experienced a true mountain winter first hand. I took a guided tour of the Maligne Ice Canyon with Pursuit Collection. This walk felt otherworldly as the water had frozen the area into a wonderland that would make Elsa feel at home. While you can go into the canyon without a guide, it is not advised; I felt completely safe on our adventure as the guide checked that all the areas were frozen completely before trekking farther into the canyon. They also provided helmets, knee high wading boots, and crampons for traction.
Climbing and sliding down into the rocks I saw frozen waterfalls and brave souls climbing the ice with picks. I will never be that brave, but I will cheer on those who go for it! If you take this tour you will come away understanding this winter cycle of the land, and with a newly refreshed awe and respect for the majesty of nature.
I spent that same evening with Matricia of the Warrior Women. She told us about her life as a Cree woman in Alberta. We sat around the fire and I wrapped myself in the wool blanket she provided as the snow began to fall. Not only did she tell stories of her life, she also sang songs which she accompanied by a drum.
The drum was handmade from elk hide, cedar wood, and willow. Matricia has a voice that transports you, and I could have listened to her just sing for an hour. She discusses topics like reconciliation, appropriation, and appreciation in a way that creates a safe space to ask questions without fear. She has a gift of answering questions without making you feel bad for asking them. I left her fireside chat knowing how to be a better ally.
In Alberta, respectful conversations are being had with the goal of reconciliation, and it’s such a breath of fresh air.
If you are going for a vacation this winter, consider enjoying a true winter vacation in Alberta. You will come home the better for the trip.
Keri Lumm is a professional chatterbox who loves watching TV & movies, reading about pop culture, and gawking at any craziness on the internet. You can follow Keri on Twitter.